A historic square reopened in 2021 after a major pedestrian-friendly renovation, still centered on its grand monument to Miguel de Cervantes, Don Quixote, and Sancho Panza.
Overview
Plaza de España is Madrid’s biggest square by area and, since its 2021 reopening after a two-and-a-half-year renovation, one of its most pleasant. What used to be a traffic-choked roundabout with a monument stranded in the middle of it is now a 70,000-square-meter pedestrian park, planted with over a thousand trees and threaded with paths that connect it to the wider Casa de Campo, Sabatini Gardens, and Madrid Río green network. At its heart, unchanged through all the redesign, is the elaborate stone monument to Miguel de Cervantes, Spain’s most celebrated writer, flanked by bronze statues of Don Quixote and Sancho Panza.
It’s a good stop for literature fans making the Cervantes pilgrimage, families who want green space and playgrounds without leaving the city center, and anyone curious to see one of Madrid’s more dramatic recent urban transformations firsthand.
History & Significance
The square dates to the 19th century, but its current form is the product of two very different eras. The monument to Cervantes, designed by architects Rafael Martínez Zapatero and Pedro Muguruza with sculptural work by Lorenzo Coullaut Valera, was inaugurated in 1930 to mark the writer’s legacy — the bronze figures of Don Quixote and Sancho Panza, added later, remain the square’s most photographed detail and a magnet for anyone tracing Cervantes’ literary footprint through the city.
Around it rose two of Madrid’s most striking mid-20th-century towers: the Edificio España (1953) and the Torre de Madrid (1957), both built during the Franco era as symbols of national ambition, and both still dominating the skyline above the square today. For decades, the square itself was compromised by heavy traffic circling the monument, which made it more of a roundabout than a place to linger.
That changed with the 2021 renovation, designed by Porras Guadiana Arquitectos, which rerouted all through-traffic into an underground tunnel connecting Calle de Bailén and Calle de Ferraz, freeing up the surface for gardens, pedestrian paths, and connections to the Sabatini Gardens, Campo del Moro, and Casa de Campo. It reopened to the public on November 22, 2021, transformed from a traffic obstacle into one of central Madrid’s largest green pedestrian spaces.
Top Things to See & Do
- Monument to Miguel de Cervantes — the square’s centerpiece, with bronze figures of Don Quixote and Sancho Panza at its base
- Torre de Madrid and Edificio España — the two towering mid-20th-century skyscrapers framing the square
- The renovated gardens — landscaped pedestrian paths connecting the square to Sabatini Gardens, Campo del Moro, and beyond
- Seasonal ice rink — a temporary attraction that sometimes appears in the square around Christmas
Hidden gem: The pedestrian pathways added in the renovation now link Plaza de España directly to the Sabatini Gardens and Campo del Moro behind the Royal Palace — a walking route most visitors don’t realize exists, and a far more scenic way to reach the palace grounds than the main streets.
Insider Tips & Etiquette
Thirty to forty-five minutes is enough for the monument and a walk through the gardens; add more if you continue on the connected pathways toward the Royal Palace grounds. Photography is unrestricted throughout, and there’s no dress code. The renovation’s added tree cover makes this one of the more comfortable central squares to visit in summer heat, a genuine advantage over the more exposed Plaza Mayor or Puerta del Sol.
Because the redesign is still relatively recent, some of the newly planted trees are young and offer less shade than they eventually will — bring a hat regardless if visiting at midday in summer. The square connects to several genuinely pedestrian-only paths now, which makes it a good rest stop if you’re walking a longer route between the Royal Palace and Gran Vía.
Photography & Social Media Guide
The best shot lines up the Cervantes monument with the Torre de Madrid and Edificio España rising behind it — position yourself on the monument’s eastern side, facing west, for this combination of literary history and mid-century skyline. Late afternoon light works best, both for the towers and for the gardens, which photograph more warmly once the harsh midday sun has passed.
Who It’s For
Families: Significantly more kid-friendly since the 2021 renovation, with far more green space, seating, and pedestrian safety than the old traffic-circle version of the square. Accessibility: Fully step-free and level, with all traffic rerouted underground — one of the more accessible large squares in central Madrid. Budget travelers: Free to visit, with the gardens themselves being the main draw — no need to spend money to enjoy a proper rest stop here.
Booking Strategy & Crowd Hacking
No booking required — this is an open public square with no timed access. It draws steady foot traffic throughout the day, but its scale means it never feels as packed as smaller squares like Puerta del Sol.
Crowd meter: Low in early morning; medium through the day; peak on weekend afternoons and during any seasonal events like the Christmas ice rink.
Where to Go Next
Temple of Debod, the relocated ancient Egyptian temple, is a scenic 10-minute walk through Parque del Oeste and offers one of Madrid’s best sunset viewpoints. Gran Vía starts right at the square’s eastern edge, making this a natural bookend to a walk down that avenue. The Royal Palace of Madrid is reachable via the new pedestrian paths through Sabatini Gardens, a quieter and more scenic route than the main streets. For food, the casual bars along Calle de Ferraz just off the square are a solid, unpretentious option, or pack something for a picnic in the Temple of Debod park with sunset views over the city.
Where to Go Next
freeTemple of Debod
A genuine 2nd-century BC Egyptian temple, gifted to Spain and rebuilt stone by stone in a Madrid park — famous above all for its sunset views.
must seeGran Vía
A 1.3-kilometer avenue of early-20th-century towers, historic theaters, and flagship shops that's been Madrid's liveliest street since it opened in 1910.
must seeRoyal Palace of Madrid
Europe's largest functioning royal palace: 3,000+ rooms of Bourbon excess, a world-class armoury, and the last word in Spanish state pomp.